Tips on Busting Blackheads

Most of us to would have some form of blackheads on our face in varying degree of affliction (and those who don't - I am mighty jealous and want your skin!).

Unfortunately for me, I have plenty of these pesky black dots on my nose and a few on my chin and no matter what I do, I just can't get to rid of them permanently.

So whether it be through squeezing them with my fingers or using pore strips to remove them, I love extracting them out - gross I know, but nothing gives me more satisfaction than seeing them out of my skin.

While I do the regular squeezing of my nose to get rid of all the gunk, there is a greater risk of injuring skin when squeezing out blackheads so always I only do it after skin is softened (after a shower or a facial mask is a great time to do the dirty work).

With pore strips, if the skin is not prepped properly, the strip doesn't effectively picked up the clog pores and remove enough blackheads. I've recently discovered a method of using pore strip that is as good as manual squeezing without the risk of injuring skin.

The Safer Way of Removing Blackheads

1. Wash face thoroughly with water and your preferred cleanser. I use a glycolic cleanser like Invisible Zinc cleanser with 12% glycolic acid 200ml - RRP $35 (which can also be used as a treatment mask when left on skin for 5 minutes).

2. Apply a glycolic based mask (you can use the IZ product above for this step on the problem areas only). This is the key as gylocic acid breaks down the top layer 'glue' on skin that holds the dead skin cells on skin. I like the Alpha-H Liquid Gold Smoothing + perfecting mask 100 ml - RRP $63 and Endota's glycolic polishing mask 100ml - RRP $70

3. Wet nose area and apply Biore Cleansing pore strip 6 pk* - RRP A$5.69 as per normal.

4. Wait until the pore strip hardens to a plaster feel on your nose and then peel off skin. Hey presto - you should see a tonne more blackheads release and peeled off with the strip than normally would.


I use this gycolic acid treatment/pore cleansing strip combination method once a week to de-speckle my nose.

So there you have it -  maximise your blackhead busting powers with the use of glycolic-acid based products by un-clogging skin and prepping it for blackhead removal.

What are your tips to combatting blackheads?

* product was provided for consideration.

Refine Your Skin: Alpha H Smoothing& Perfecting Mask

I've had a broken blogging week last week with a mini-getaway for the Australia day long weekend (I took the Friday off) up the Victorian alpine ranges and then work just got crazy when I got back this week.

I still have a few articles in the skincare series I want to get through so this will the the second week of the series to wrap it all up.

Today I want to introduce to you a facial mask I've been using over the past 2 months that I'm loving to bits.

Alpha-H Smoothing & Perfecting Mask - 100ml

• This is a glycolic infused clay mask that helps to not only absorb excess sebum from face, but the 15% buffered glycolic acid adds a little extra oomph to this otherwise fairly ordinary clay mask. 
• When put onto cleansed damp skin, I feel an initial tingling from it and knows it goes to work straight away. The instructions suggests to leave this on for 10 minutes but often I go over this time because I'm too busy watching TV shows and don't walk back into the bathroom to wash off till the next opportune ad. Never do I feel discomfort from leaving it on longer though and if you do as you may have more sensitised skin, wash it off when it gets too tingly/itchy. 
• Another reason why I love this mask is because of the amazing lavender scent which is soothing and invigorating to the senses at the same time. 

slapping on the mask after a long day at work

• Afterwards, skin is not only soft and smooth as expected but my flaky bits are also washed off easily and it helps to keep all those blackheads on my nose under control - hallelujah! 
• I also noticed that weekly use also refined my pores on my cheeks and they are smaller, texture of skin is more even and I'm less oily during the day, despite it being full summer weather where I'm normally an oil-slick by midday, I now only have a light sheen. This and my daily glycolic cleanser use have really helped to refine my skin and change what was an oily yet dehydrated skin type to more of a normal-combination skin type. This is definitely a great achievement for me. 
• I would recommend this to all skin types except for those with sensitive skins or on any open wounds (it may sting a bit if applied on popped pimples so avoid using the mask on those areas).

If you love glycolic acid cleansers and want extra skin refining benefits in your masks, then Alpha-H smoothing & Perfecting mask is a great addition to your skincare. In fact, because I don't want to be running out, I've already bought a back up tube after receiving a sample size tube of the product to try last year.

RRP A$63 at selected salons, and cheaper online at AdoreBeauty (A$52.92) or the Facial Company (A$53.55).  I bought mine from AdoreBeauty.

P.S - buffering of AHA products makes it safer to use as there are less free acids particles in the products that could to too aggressive to skin.

Potent Line Erasers

Sometimes your skin just needs more than the average moisturising and you need extra fighting powers in your skincare arsenal to target specific skin concerns.

In adult skin, the main skin concerns are fine lines, pigmentation, wrinkles and hormonal break outs.  Today we'll look at line erasing products that actually works. 

The most effective and scientifcally proven line minimising products are retinoids, which is a derivative of vitamin A.

Unfortunately the good stuff (retin-A which is tretinoin -a retinoic acid at concentrations of 0.01% .025% 0.05%) are available prescription-only in Australia and are usually prescribed by the local GP for acne treatment as it speeds up the shedding of outer layer skin (epidermis) to reveal softer new skin and stimulates the production of collagen on the dermis layer of skin for baby plump skin (which btw is a great treatment for reducing the dimply appearance of stretchmarks). 

Retin-A is prescription-only and costs A$30 a 20g tube

As doctors don't usually write these out to save you from wrinkles, you may have to look online for sites that offer to sell them without a script but I find this somewhat dubious so would advise you to go see a dermatologist and pester them for a script instead.

If all that is too hard for you, then your best bet is the poor man's version of the activie ingredient in the form of retinol. Retinol isn't as potent as the prescription stuff (because it needs to break down to retinoic acid first, resulting in a lower concentration of the available active ingredient to it works its magic on lines and wrinkles) but still can gently refine your skin over time.

The other products that help to refine skin is alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), which dissolves the glue that keeps the dead skin cells on the surface of skin that can dull your complexion and help to reveal newer soft skin.

Like any other skin thinning products those, it makes you sensitive to the sun's rays so I cannot stress enough you need to cover up with sunscreen or best yet, a hat  and long sleeved shirt to make sure you don't damage the newly revealed skin.

Although I have access to Retin-A via my dermatologist, I find that it can be too strong on my skin and make my face peel like an onion which is not a good look. So retinol products have its place in my vanity table as it's milder and the peeling effects are not as promininent. My current favourite retinol product is from Roc.

Roc Retin-Ox Intensive Anti-wrinkle Cream Night 30ml - A$49.95 

I use this twice a week for a dose of retinoid on my skin in a bid to minimise and delay the deepening of fine lines Cream based, it spreads easily and has a very pleasant albeit slightly strong scent that some people may find too much. The next day my face is soft, supple and the fine lines look lighter. 

There's now a new version of this called Retin-OX wrinkle filler with retinol and hyaluronic acid which I haven't yet tried but I am really impressed with it's predecessor so have high expectation of the incumbent.


Alpha-H Liquid Gold - 100ml A$57.50

I use this once a week in place of a serum. This golden brown liquid has a distinct scent (not unpleasant but there is alcohol in it) improves and clarifies skintones, removes dry patches and firms and refines skin with 10% glycolic acid. It's also great at fading blemish scars but do cause skin sensitivity by thinning the upper layer of skin so be sure the use it only at night and top up with the sunscreen during the day

Skin Plumpers
With all these skin thinning and high actives ingredients, you need to plump the skin up with something that mimics its own fat to keep the youthful look. Nothing like essential fatty acids omega 3 and 6 to help revitalise your carefully prepped skin from all those other skin refining products.

Organic Rose Hip Oil 100ml - A$18

On dehyrdrated days, my skin just drinks this right up. I love it around the eye areas to plump the skin up and with all the essential fatty acids and high vitamin C concentration, it repairs and protects and brightens. A must have for me during winter months. Read more about my love for it here.

What do you use to combat the signs of aging? Would you resort to surgery?

Battle of the Daily Exfoliants- Alpha-H v Dermalogica v SHE

I can't get by most days without using an exfoliator to cleanse my face because it's the only way to have my skin looking fresh and help keep the dry patches at bay.

Now bead or pumice based exfoliators do become a bit too harsh for daily use so it's great that there are alternatives in the market. The best known one would be the powder based Dermologica's Daily Microfoliant and recently the SHE Red-Rice Exfoliating Powder and now Alpha-H has joined the market with its own unique version.

Powder exfoliants are meant to be used on cleanse skin so don't use this with a face full of makeup. You should pre-cleansing face first or just use this first thing in the morning to avoid having to wash your face twice.

Unlike other normal cleansers, these powder based cleansers are meant to be mixed with a tiny bit of water in your palm to make a smooth paste before spreading it onto your area of skin to be cleaned. It took a bit of getting used to for me to work out the right amount of water to use to get a nice thick paste - adding water drop by drop is key.

Alpha-H Gentle Daily Exfoliant* - RRP A$59.95 for 50g

• This doesn't come with instructions but before the first use, you have to open up the lid (not the cap on the top) and take out the plastic seal inside to allow the powder to flow out from the lid, but after that, the unique packaging will dispense precise amounts of powder for each wash and avoid over pouring - bonus points for this
• Is actually a clay powder based product compared to the other 2 powdered exfoliants. There is no odour when using this cleanser. 
• Contains enzymes from pineapple and papaya extract which is activated upon contact with skin to do the chemical exfoliating work. 
• After massaging it in circular motion for a minute to rub of dead skin cells, I use this as a mask by leaving it on my skin for another 4 minutes on a weekly basis for it to work as an enzyme mask to give me an exfoliating boost. 
• Has only 6 ingredients: Kaolin, Sodium Diatomeae, Bentonite (another clay type), Carica Papaya Extract, Ananas Sativus (pineapple) Extract, CI 77891 (aka titanium dioxide) - I love simple products. 

Results
I heart the smoothness of skin after use. blackheads are reduced and there is not a single dry patch in sight.  Skin has a brightened complexion with a healthy radiance after 2 weeks; it's also very gentle and non-irritating even with the enzymes at work.
The clay base also seems to help control oil production and I don't get as greasy anymore during the day.


Dermalogica Daily Microfoliant - RRP A$83.50 for 75g

• Rice powder based powder, it contains cellulose and can get clumpy in skin when over worked during the massage phase and is less smooth in texture than the Alpha H version.
• Ingredients listing reads like a cast of thousands - Microcrystalline Cellulose, Talc, Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, Disodium Lauryl Sulfosuccinate, Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate, Colloidal Oatmeal, Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran, Oryza Sativa (Rice) Starch, Extracts Of: Arctostaphylos Uva Ursi Leaf, Citrus Grandis (Grapefruit) Fruit, Oryza Sativa (Rice), Ginkgo Biloba, Camellia Sinensis Leaf, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice); Essential Oils Of: Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf, Citrus Grandis (Grapefruit) Peel; Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Limonene, Allantoin, Salicylic Acid, Aspergillus Ferment, Papain, Pca, Allyl Methacrylates Crosspolymer, Cyclodextrin, Methylparaben, Titanium Dioxide 
• I'm a strong believer that simple is best but there are similar enzyme ingredients papain (c.f. Papaya extract from Alpha-H) in the lists. 

Results 
Very comparable to Alpha-H, giving soft smooth skin after use and does a great job with dry patches and black heads too. There is less skin brightening properties immediately after use and doesn't help with sebum control for me. If these aren't your concern then Dermalogica would be a better alternative as it is actually cheaper gram per gram to Alpha-H.


SHE Red-Rice Exfoliating Powder -RRP A$19.95 for 50g

• Is not an enzymed based power and instead has rice vinegar and lemon peel oil to refine pores. 
• Texture wise, although the powder looked very similar to Dermalogica's microfoliant and is rice based, upon mixing with water you can tell it isn't as finely milled. There are actually minute grains of rice in this product and it works more like a scrub than a powder exfoliant when massaged on skin. 
• Comes in a cardboard based container with no dispensing control mechanism so you will need to carefully pour your own amounts. 
• Ingredients is also a lengthy read: Zea mays (Corn starch), Sodium potassium aluminium silicate, Guar hydroxypropyl trimonium chloride, Kaolin, Disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate, Oryza sativa (Rice) extract, Sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, Red rice vinegar, Citrus aurantium bergamia (Bergamot) oil, Citrus limon (Lemon) oil, Cananga odorata (Ylang ylang) flower oil, Silica

Results

I found this powder scrub quite harsh on my skin as the rice granules were very hard. It left my skin feeling smoother but also slightly raw and is definitely a poor comparison to the other 2 products. I would only recommend this product as a facial scrub and not a exfoliating powder so am disappointed with its misleading name. 

The corn starch in SHE makes it look smoother than Dermalogica but the rice granules don't dissolve

Verdict
I would have to say the clear winner in my books is Alpha H, it doesn't get too clumpy when I over rub it onto skin; the clay base helps with oil control and it gives the best results in terms of skin softness and improved clarity. Dermalogica is a very comparable and close contender so its really up to personal preference on use of the two. SHE is at a lower class than the other 2 products and not very comparable in terms of texture of the product or the results achieve during use although it is alot cheaper in price as well.

Alpha H and Dermalogica are available at selected salons, pharmacies and online at the Facial Company
SHE is available at selected Priceline and pharmacies or online at SHE Australia online.

Products marked * were provided for consideration. Others were purchased by me.